The jacket belongs to the family of coats. Trench, duster, cloak, caban, montgomery, they all fit in the same category. Women's jacket, compared to men's, can have multiple shapes and different details, the only thing they have in common is the possibility to button up in a single or double breasted style.The single breasted version has the front button-hole part on top of the button zone by 3-4 centimeters; in the double breasted version, on the other hand, the surmount is bigger (10-12 cm). The double breasted jacket is less practical as it must be kept buttoned up precisely.
In the models with neck and “revers” it's very important the “snapping” point as it determines the length of the neckline and indicates where the button arrangement and the revers' folding starts.
The “rever” is the folding of the superior part of the facing (internal textile on the front sewed to the lining).
The most important lines of a jacket, which vary according to the fashion, are:
- ADERENTE (tight, that wrap the figure): for the purpose of obtaining the best results, mainly stretchy textiles are used.
- A MATITA (Chanel style): it is a straight line, “easy and clean”, characterized by right and quite small shoulders.
- A SACCO: straight but wide line.
- A RENDIGOTE: it is a tight line but with a cutting at the waist line. The lower part can have various shapes and widths (Basque, frill, etc.).
- TRAPEZIO: famous line made popular by the famous tailor C. Dior; it’s defined by small shoulders, the waist line is not marked and the line gets wider at the bottom forming a trapezoid, indeed.
- IMPERO ('60s): it is described by a cut slightly above the waist line and below the breasts.
- PIPISTRELLO: it is a particular line characterized by wide sleeves tied with the body that, starting from the waist line, tightens towards the wrists.
Women's jacket, in order to fit well the appearance of the breasts and the waists, needs cuttings or darts. The main cuttings are “a bretella” or with “fianchino”. The “bretella” cut starts from the shoulder and, passing through the breast point, reaches the bottom of the jacket. The “fianchino” cut, on the other hand, is a curve one that, most times, starts from the joint of the sleeves and goes through the breast area.
The three most common types of sleeves that a jacket can have are:
-ROUND (single piece or two pieces)
-KIMONO (with or without inlay)
The first one is certainly the most common and practical, it can be formed by a single piece (that is, uncut) with a dart or with a cuff at the bottom; the two pieces version (men's jacket style) is the classic one, with buttons and slit (“spacchetto”).
The Raglan sleeve is sewed at the neck instead of at the shoulders, creating a rounder shoulder.
The Kimono model is a particular sleeve without rounding sewing; the fore and the rear part are a whole in themselves, and the adding of an inlay add more motion to the arm and it makes possible the use of a narrower sleeve.
The most known neckline shapes, which can be also found in suits, are:
The latter gets the name from the characteristic shape: broad on the front, kept away laterally from the neck.
“IN PIEDI”: “a listino”, “alla coreana”, “a cratere”, “a imbuto”.
SCIALLE: rising, flat with rounded endings.
REVER: classic 1-breasted, 2-breasted, with spear-like endings, diamond shaped
In the “in piedi” neck family, the “listino” and “coreana” style stand out from the others; they are very similar, but the “coreana” version has rounded endings.
The “cratere” model is a “listino” neck slightly more shifted that tends to close on the top.
The “imbuto” neck is its opposite, it tends to widen on top; the “scialle”, like all its variations, is pretty much a complete rever that revolves creating a collar. The effect, as the name implies, is of a comfy and embracing neck.
Pockets are always important in a jacket and in female models they can design original and peculiar shapes.
The basic models, from which a lot of variations can be drawn, are essentially two:
-A FILETTO (or braided)
-APPLICATE (or patched)
The “filetto” pockets can be
-double braid with slide
-with braid set in with a vertical sewing.
Patched pockets are more various and they stretch from a simply ones – straight or rounded – to the ones complete with slide or a folding.
Now, after those simplt but useful concepts, have fun creating your own jacket!